竞技攀岩溯源与演变研究

竞技攀岩作为新晋奥运项目，探究其起源和演变过程可为我国竞技攀岩的发展提供借鉴、指导及理论缘由。采用文献资料研究和逻辑分析方法，探讨了竞技攀岩的概念，分析了竞技攀岩诞生的装备和技术基础、社会文化背景，以及三个发展阶段的主要特征。研究表明，竞技攀岩是攀岩运动中符合现代竞技体育特征的部分，是攀岩运动"竞技体育化"的结果；器械装备升级提供的技术基础和战后复兴的历史背景，共同促成了竞技攀岩在苏联的诞生；竞技攀岩的演变经历了苏联时期的普及化与国际化尝试、UIAA主导的竞技攀岩国际管理体系与赛事体系建设、IFSC引领的奥运发展新时期三个阶段；竞技攀岩的后奥运时代将迎来前所未有的发展契机。

Origin and Evolution of Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is a new Olympic event. The study of its origin and evolution can provide reference and theoretical basis for its development in China. With the methods of literature review and logical analysis, this paper discussed the concept of sport climbing, analyzed the equipment basis, technical foundations and the social-cultural background of the birth of sport climbing, as well as the different characteristics of three stages of its development. The research showed that sport climbing used to be a part of rock climbing, embracing the characteristics of modern competitive sports. The technical basis provided by upgraded equipment and the historical background of post-war revival jointly contributed to the birth of sport climbing in the Soviet Union. The evolution of sport climbing experienced three stages:the attempt of popularization and internationalization in the Soviet Union, the UIAA-led construction of the international management system and competition system for sport climbing, and the new era of Olympic development led by IFSC. Sport climbing in the post-Olympic era would have unprecedented development opportunities.