Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. Results: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r² = .48 and r² = .42 for sport climbing; r² = .66 and r² = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r² = .42) and bouldering ability (r² = .58). Conclusion: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.     

攀岩运动损伤流行病学研究进展

从登山运动中衍生而来的攀岩运动,是我国政府2013年公布的首批4项高危险性体育项目之一,其损伤风险日益受到关注。为揭示攀岩运动损伤的流行病学特征,综述了国内外攀岩运动损伤相关文献,对攀岩运动损伤发生率、损伤特征和影响因素进行了梳理。结果表明,室内人工岩壁攀登的损伤发生率总体上处于较低水平;损伤多发生在手、肩、肘、腕、膝、踝等部位,但攀爬方式的转变引起了损伤部位的明显变化,当前手指滑车、手掌和肩关节损伤最为常见;损伤类型中较多为过度使用损伤和急性损伤,过度使用损伤多发于上肢,急性损伤多发于下肢;损伤的程度一般较轻。攀岩运动员的年龄、性别、运动水平、运动负荷等自身因素以及场地、保护员水平、装备器材等外部因素均会对损伤特征产生影响。建议进一步探讨攀岩运动的损伤机制和预防措施,并统一攀岩运动损伤的定义和统计标准,针对不同人群进行长期的跟踪研究,以加深对攀岩运动损伤特征和机制的认识,帮助攀岩教练员与运动员更好地预防损伤的发生。     

高校攀岩体育课程安全保障刍议

针对高校实施攀岩体育课程所面临的安全隐患,对学生体育活动过程中运动损伤状况的调查,寻找攀岩课程的安全性依据,并提出确保高校攀岩体育课程安全实施的对策及措施。     

国家攀岩集训队训练保障研究

为备战奥运,在我国基础较差、底子较弱的情况下实现竞技攀岩的跨越式发展,国家体育总局开展跨界跨项选材项目和国家攀岩集训队试点工作。在此背景下,本研究以国家攀岩集训队为研究对象,综合运用文献资料法、问卷调查法等研究国家攀岩集训队训练保障情况。研究表明,国家攀岩集训队人员配备情况差别较大,教练员团队基本能满足运动训练的需要,但相关辅助团队人员配备不足;大多数集训队的经费和场馆器材等能保障集训队基本运营,但存在一定的地域差距,经费支出配置不尽合理。     

高校攀岩运动员身体素质相关指标的监测与研究

通过文献资料法、调查访问法、测量法和数理统计法,建构高校攀岩运动员身体素质评价基本结构模型。研究可知,高校攀岩运动员的身体素质主要受五个因子的控制;身体素质综合评价模型能比较客观、全面地评定出运动员的身体素质训练水平,为今后运动员的运动训练及运动员选材提供科学依据。     

优秀攀岩运动员肘关节屈伸肌等速肌力测试研究

利用德国Isomed2000等速肌力测试系统对优秀攀岩运动员左右肘肘关节进行等速测试,探析攀岩运动员肘关节屈伸肌群的生物力学特征,为运动训练科学选材及康复提供理论依据。结果：优秀攀岩运动员屈伸峰力矩（PT）随测试速度的增大而减小,且屈伸峰力矩屈肌大于肘伸肌;最大功率随测试速度的增大而增加,左右侧做功无明显差异,表明两侧肌力平衡;屈或伸的向心/离心（ECC/CON）随给定运动速度的增加而增大,屈肌的向心/离心（ECC/CON）比值小于1.0。     

速度攀岩运动员肌肉疲劳的表面肌电信号分析方法

实验表明,速度攀岩运动是非周期性运动,攀岩运动员在速度攀岩的每趟或同一趟的不同时段,他的表面肌电信号都有较大的变化,是显著的非稳定信号。所以,运用表面肌电信号分析速度攀岩运动员的肌肉疲劳问题存在着一定的困难:不能用传统的频阈分析方法去评价相关肌肉的疲劳问题,而只有运用非线性信号分析方法才能较好解决这一问题,然而sEMG非线性信号分析的应用尚属初期探索阶段,有待科研工作者的深入研究。     

高水平速攀运动员核心力量训练的实证研究简

运用文献资料法、访谈法、测试法及数理统计法等方法,对我国现役高水平速攀运动员的核心力量训练方法和手段进行了实证研究.结果显示：通过12周3个阶段的核心力量训练,速攀运动员核心力量水平得到提高;反映速攀运动员的专项能力素质提高幅度较大;专项速度耐力完成连续攀爬前4趟累计时间和后4趟累计时间的时间差和绝对时间都明显减少;核心力量训练的效果女运动员优于男运动员.     

Peak muscle activation, joint kinematics, and kinetics during elliptical and stepping movement pattern on a Precor Adaptive Motion Trainer

Kinematic, kinetic, and electromyography data were collected from the biceps femoris, rectus femoris (RF), gluteus maximus, and erector spinae (ES) during a step and elliptical exercise at a standardized workload with no hand use. Findings depicted 95% greater ankle plantar flexion (p = .01), 29% more knee extension (p = .003), 101% higher peak knee flexor moments (p < .001) 54% greater hip extensor moments (p < .001), 268% greater anterior joint reaction force (p = .009), 37% more RF activation (p < .001), and 200 % more ES activation (p <. 001) for the elliptical motion. Sixteen percent more hip flexion (p < .001), 42% higher knee extensor moments (p < .001), and 54% greater hip flexor moments (p = .041) occurred during the step motion. Biomechanical differences between motions should be considered when planning an exercise regimen.     

高山探险、攀岩、漂流、蹦极、潜水等项目社会体育指导员实行国家就业准入的可行性研究

运用文献资料调研、问卷调查、访谈、特尔斐法等研究方法,以高山探险、攀岩、漂流、蹦极、潜水5个运动项目为研究对象,对运动项目社会体育指导员实行国家准入的可行性进行研究。主要从就业准入的必要性、准入的外部和内部条件进行分析,其中内部条件主要从运动项目的大众参与度、运动项目的技术复杂度和危险程度三个方面展开论证。研究认为:高山探险、攀岩、漂流、蹦极、潜水等5个项目由于技术较为复杂、参与的人数多、危险度高的项目特点,其社会体育指导员符合国家就业准入的外部条件和内部条件,亟需国家就业准入。     

高校业余乒乓球运动员赛前和赛中常见心理问题的分析研究

乒乓球运动是一种易受心理影响的运动。文章主要运用文献资料研究方法,对运动员赛前、赛中常见的心理问题,如:不自信、目标模糊、过度兴奋、内心胆怯等一系列问题进行分析研究,并提出了科学合理的解决办法。希望能有效地提高高校乒乓球业余运动员的心理素质和比赛成绩。     

Variability in Measurement of Swimming Forces

An analysis was conducted to identify sources of true and error variance in measuring swimming drag force to draw valid conclusions about performance factor effects. Passive drag studies were grouped according to methodological differences: tow line in pool, tow line in flume, and carriage in tow tank. Active drag studies were grouped according to the theoretical basis: added and/or subtracted drag (AAS), added drag with equal power assumption (AAE), and no added drag (ANA). Data from 36 studies were examined using frequency distributions and meta-analytic procedures. It was concluded that two active methods (AAE and ANA) had sources of systematic error and that one active method (AAS) measured an effect that was different from that measured by passive methods. Consistency in drag coefficient (Cd) values across all three passive methods made it possible to determine the effects of performance factors.     

我军特种兵军事攀登训练发展构想

本文通过文献资料法、实地走访法、现场观察法、问卷调查法和数理统计法等方法对我军特种兵军事攀登开展现状、存在问题及发展构想进行了深入探讨,以期为促进提高我军特种兵军事攀登训练效果提供理论参考。     

食指摆动频率测试仪“指频测试”在运动员选材中的应用

采用实验法,应用自行设计的"食指摆动频率测试仪"对男女优秀运动员进行"指频测试".结果显示:男子短跑和中长跑运动员8 s平均指频为85.26次,平均差距为9.89次(P<0.01);以上项目女子运动员平均指频为74.54次,平均差距为8.48次(P<0.05);男女短跑和中长距离项目运动员平均指频为81.87次,平均差距为7.89次(P<0.05).建议:男子短距离项目应挑选指频迭90次以上的运动员,男子中长距离项目应挑选指频达80次以上的运动员;女子短距离项目挑选指频迭78次以上的运动员,女子中长距离项目应挑选指频达70次以上的运动员.     

不同体重人群爬楼梯过程中能量消耗的测定

通过测试不同体重人群爬楼梯过程中的能量消耗特点,建立中国国民体力活动能量消耗常模,指导大众健身.选取中国健康成年人作为研究人群,根据不同性别、体重进行分组,利用便携式心肺功能仪(德国CORTEX MetaMax 3B)测试受试者爬楼梯过程中的耗氧量、通气量、心率、呼吸商、氧脉搏等指标进而计算出能量消耗.研究结果显示,爬楼梯过程中能量消耗随着体重的增大而逐渐增大,单位体重能量消耗随体重增大而逐渐减小,男性单位体重能量消耗明显大子女性,上楼过程所消耗的能量是下楼过程的一倍左右.     

Estimating the Stability Reliability of a Score

The internal consistency and factorial validity of the 6-factor Scale of Coaching Performance (SCP; MacLean &; Chelladurai,1995) were examined using the responses of 448 administrators and coaches, randomly selected among NCAA programs. Confirmatory factor analysis, alpha coefficients, composite reliabilities, and variance extracted measures were utilized to test the internal consistency, reliability, and factorial validity of the SCP. The original 6-factor model was also tested against possible alternative models. The SCP had weak factor reliabilities: the public relations behaviors factor had an unacceptable reliability coefficient. The fit statistics (χ²p;= 2641.72; Scaled χ² = 2141.70, p < .001; RMSEA = .081; GFI = .74) indicated unsatisfactory factorial validity of the 6-factor model using the NCAA sample, because of problematic indicators and weak independence of latent variables but none of the alternative models provided better fit to the NCAA data. The SCP may be population-specific to the Canadian athletic system, which differs from the system found in the United States. Further analytic efforts are needed to improve the generalizability of SCP.     

Reliability of 5-km Running Performance in a Competitive Environment

The aim of this study was to examine the reliability of a 5-km time-trial during a competitive outdoor running event. Fifteen endurance runners (age = 29.5 ± 4.3 years, height = 1.75 ± 0.08 m, body mass = 71.0 ± 7.1 kg, 5-km lifetime personal best = 19:13 ± 1:13 minutes) completed two competitive 5-km time-trials over 2 weeks. No systematic differences in run time between Trial 1 and Trial 2 were reported (Trial 1: 1,217 ± 85 sec, 95% CI [1,170, 1,264]; and Trial 2: 1,216 ± 79 sec, [1,172 to 1,260], p = .855). Absolute reliability, expressed as the typical error (TE; 14.7 sec, 95% CI = 11.3–21.4 sec) and coefficient of variation (CV; 0.95 ± 0.65%, [0.59–1.31]) confirms the reliability of 5-km running performance in a competitive time trial.     

Reliability of a Selected Measure of Human Strength

Abstract

Five trials spaced a minute apart were secured on 50 male subjects three days in succession on an apparatus designed to isolate action of the right wrist flexor muscle group. Reliability of measurement was assessed through the intraclass correlation technique. Although an acceptable level of reliability was obtained (R = .93), nonpertinent factors apparently intruded. These were tentatively identified as a trial effect due to depletion of energy reserves for strength exertion, and a day effect due to either strength development, a learning effect, or a combination of strength development and learning effects. Consideration of such factors in measurement programs was noted.     

攀岩入亚运——参赛男子运动员身体形态和年龄特征研究

攀岩项目作为雅加达亚运会和2020年东京奥运会新增设的正式比赛项目,与之相关的研究受到了广泛的关注。本研究采用文献资料法、数理统计法,对参加第十八届雅加达亚运会攀岩项目男子运动员的身高、体重、克托莱指数和年龄进行比较研究。结果表明:不同项目、名次的亚洲优秀男子攀岩运动员在身高、体重、克托莱指数和年龄上具有鲜明的特征。此结果可为中国攀岩男子运动员的科学选材和训练提供借鉴与参考。