Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance

Abstract

The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force – time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N · s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N · s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N · s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N · s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force – time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023 – 40% test timepoint, P = 0.014 – 60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force – time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance.     

Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance

Abstract

The aims of this study were to examine training characteristics, body composition, muscular strength, and endurance in sport climbers, and to demonstrate the relationship among these components by means of structural equation modelling. Altogether, 205 sport climbers (136 males, 69 females), with a performance RP (red point) of grade 4 to 11 on the Union Internationale des Association d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale, took part in the study. The proposed structural model, with latent variable hand–arm strength and endurance (developed from reference values for simple tests), indicated by three manifest variables (grip strength, bent-arm hang, and finger hang) and three exogenous variables (body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience), explained 97% of the variance in climbing performance. The relationship between body fat and climbing experience/volume with climbing performance was not direct, but was better explained using the mediator hand–arm strength and endurance. We conclude that these simple tests, together with percent body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience, can satisfactorily predict climbing performance.     

Using characteristics of serious leisure to classify rock climbers: a latent profile analysis

The growth of the climbing industry enables more people to use this sport to promote a healthy lifestyle. Given this trend, it is important to understand the heterogeneity of rock climbers and differences in their attributes, motivations and behaviors. In this study, the characteristics of serious leisure (SL) were used to classify rock climbers. Four hundred and eighty-six rock climbers recruited in this study were classified into three groups: low commitment (LC; N?=?82), high commitment (HC; N?=?355) and dedicated groups (N?=?49). A high mean on the financial return item distinguished the dedicated group (M?=?7.52) from the other two. Subsequently, the results of multinomial logistic regression, with the dedicated group as the baseline category, showed that with increases in experiences (i.e. days of climbing in the past year and years of climbing) and internalized motivations (i.e. intrinsic, identified and introjected motivations), a climber is less relatively likely of being in the LC group. Further, comparing the HC group with the dedicated group, with increases in experiences and introjected motivation, a climber is less likely of being in the HC group. The results of the classification complemented the results of previous qualitative SL studies regarding diverse participation in leisure commitment. The results with respect to motivation supported that internalization is associated with increases in commitment. Service providers should keep current regarding dynamic climbing culture and help clients fulfill diverse needs of commitment to rock climbing. The findings of this study enhance existing knowledge of recreationists’ development in the pursuit of adventure recreation.     

Physiological and psychological responses to lead and top rope climbing for intermediate rock climbers

Abstract

Rock climbing is a popular adventure sport with an increasing research base. Early studies in the field did not make comparisons of ascents using different styles of climbing. More recently, differences in the physiological responses for an on-sight lead climb and subsequent lead climb have been reported. The purpose of the present study was to examine the effect of style of climb (lead climb or top rope climb) on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing. Nine intermediate climbers volunteered for, and completed, two randomly assigned climbing trials and a maximum oxygen uptake (VO_2max) test on a separate occasion. The climbers ascended the same 6a (sport grade) climb for both trials. Before climbing, heart rate, perception of anxiety (Revised Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2), and blood lactate concentration were measured. Climb time, heart rate, VO₂, lactate concentrations, and task load (National Aeronautics and Space Administration Task Load Index) in response to each trial were also recorded. Results indicated significant differences (P<0.05) between the trials for climb time, blood lactate concentration immediately after and 15 min after climbing, and heart rate 1 min after climbing. During lead and top rope climbing, mean VO₂ and represented 44% and 42% of treadmill VO_2max and mean heart rate represented 81% and 77% of maximum heart rate, respectively. There were no significant differences in feelings of anxiety before either climb, although climbers reported the lead climb to be physically and mentally more demanding, requiring more effort and resulting in greater frustration (P<0.05) than the top rope climb. Our results indicate that the physiological and psychological responses of intermediate climbers are different for a lead climb and top rope climb.     

Reliability and Validity of Finger Strength and Endurance Measurements in Rock Climbing

Purpose: An advanced system for the assessment of climbing-specific performance was developed and used to: (a) investigate the effect of arm fixation (AF) on construct validity evidence and reliability of climbing-specific finger-strength measurement; (b) assess reliability of finger-strength and endurance measurements; and (c) evaluate the relationship between finger flexor all-out test scores and climbing ability. Methods: To determine the effect of AF, 22 male climbers performed 2 maximal strength and all-out tests with AF (shoulder and elbow flexed at 90°) and without AF (shoulder flexed at 180° and elbow fully extended). To determine reliability, 9 male climbers completed 2 maximal strength tests with and without AF and an all-out and intermittent test without AF. Results: The maximal strength test without AF more strongly determined climbing ability than the test with AF (r² = .48 and r² = .42 for sport climbing; r² = .66 and r² = .42 for bouldering, respectively). Force and time variables were highly reliable; the rate of force development and fatigue index had moderate and low reliability. The maximal strength test with AF provided slightly higher reliability than without AF (intraclass correlation coefficient [ICC] = 0.94, ICC = 0.88, respectively). However, smaller maximal forces were achieved during AF (484 ± 112 N) than without AF (546 ± 132 N). All-out test average force had sufficiently high reliability (ICC = 0.92) and a relationship to sport climbing (r² = .42) and bouldering ability (r² = .58). Conclusion: Finger strength and endurance measurements provided sufficient construct validity evidence and high reliability for time and force parameters. Arm fixation provides more reliable results; however, the position without AF is recommended as it is more related to climbing ability.     

Measuring physical activity in field studies: Comparison of a questionnaire, 24-hour recall and an accelerometer

Abstract

In a field setting, we compared a physical activity questionnaire (SQUASH), a 24-hour recall measure (Physical Activity Scale; PAS), and an accelerometer to: (1) quantify the amount of time spent in light, moderate, and vigorous physical activity; (2) calculate activity scores; and (3) categorize participants by physical activity tertiles. For 7 consecutive days, 103 participants (61% males, 39% females; mean age 36.8 years, mean body mass index 26.6 kg·m^?2) wore an accelerometer and completed the PAS. Immediately before these 7 days, the participants completed the SQUASH and underwent anthropometric measurements (weight and height). Time spent in light (<3 METs), moderate (3–6 METs), and vigorous (≥6 METs) activity was calculated. Significant correlations were observed between the PAS and accelerometer in the population as a whole (r=0.66, P<0.001), the males (r=0.76, P<0.001), participants of normal weight (r=0.62, P<0.05), and those who were overweight (r=0.53, P<0.01). Correlations between the SQUASH and accelerometer were only significant for males (r=0.62, P<0.05) and overweight individuals (r=0.40, P<0.05). Moderate agreement was observed between tertiles for the accelerometer and PAS activity scores in the overall population (weighted kappa =0.47; 95% confidence interval =0.27–0.67) but not between the accelerometer and SQUASH. In conclusion, a 7-day administration of the PAS is a useful measure for classification of physical activity in the population studied. The SQUASH has practical advantages in terms of convenience of administration, but its usefulness in estimating physical activity is limited.     

Description of the finger mechanical load of climbers of different levels during different hand grips in sport climbing

Abstract

Currently, direct empirical evidence exists about the amount of mechanical load that climbers apply to each finger during several hand grips specific to sport climbing, but not yet in a specific hanging position.

The objectives of this study are a) to draw and build a solid and rigid support that simulates the real action of a hand grip in a hanging position in sport climbing, to enable the measurement of the mechanical load endured by the fingers in a hanging position and in addition, b) to describe the distribution of mechanical load among fingers as a function of the level of climbing during different hand grips in a hanging position.

Thirty young male participants took part in the initial phase of reliability of the measurements, while another 64 male climbers participated in the subsequent study phase to check the relations between independent and dependent variables. The level of on sight climbing and the total practice experience were used to define the groups. The research task consisted of performing hanging positions on the created support in order to measure the mechanical load endured by the fingers in the three most characteristic hand grips in climbing (crimp, half crimp and slope). It has been concluded that the performance level of the climbers had no influence on the production of a pattern of differentiated finger mechanical load during the research task.     

Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P?P?P?相似文献   

Validity of the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test in young soccer players

Abstract

The Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test is frequently used to assess aerobic endurance performance in young soccer players but only the logical validity of the test has been shown to date. The main ai m of this study was to assess the criterion (i.e. association with maximal aerobic capacity, [Vdot]O_2max) and construct validities of the test in young soccer players. A secondary aim was to examine possible shared variance of the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test with other physical capacities. Sixty-two soccer players (age 13.7±0.5 years) from an Under-14 team participated. All players performed a battery of fitness tests to assess [Vdot]O_2max, aerobic endurance performance (Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test), soccer dribbling endurance performance (Hoff dribbling test), and power performance (maximal vertical jump, 30-m sprint with 10-m split time). Results showed that the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test was strongly correlated with [Vdot]O_2max (r=0.63, P<0.001), thereby showing the test's criterion validity. Players with the best performance on the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test had significantly higher [Vdot]O_2max (P<0.001, large effect), and significantly better soccer dribbling endurance (P<0.001, large effect) and 30-m sprint times (P<0.05, medium effect). Logistic regression (r=0.79, P=0.0001) showed that Hoff dribbling test performance (explained variance=50.4%), [Vdot]O_2max (explained variance=39.7%), and 30-m sprint time (explained variance=14.4%) were significant independent parameters contributing to performance on the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test. Therefore, the Yo-Yo intermittent endurance test is a valid on-field aerobic endurance performance test for young soccer players, which can also be used to differentiate the maximal aerobic capacity, soccer dribbling endurance, and 30-m sprint performance of these players.     

Explosive force production during isometric squats correlates with athletic performance in rugby union players

Abstract

This study investigated the association between explosive force production during isometric squats and athletic performance (sprint time and countermovement jump height). Sprint time (5 and 20 m) and jump height were recorded in 18 male elite-standard varsity rugby union players. Participants also completed a series of maximal- and explosive-isometric squats to measure maximal force and explosive force at 50-ms intervals up to 250 ms from force onset. Sprint performance was related to early phase (≤100 ms) explosive force normalised to maximal force (5 m, r = ?0.63, P = 0.005; and 20 m, r = ?0.54, P = 0.020), but jump height was related to later phase (>100 ms) absolute explosive force (0.51 < r < 0.61; 0.006 < P < 0.035). When participants were separated for 5-m sprint time (< or ≥ 1s), the faster group had greater normalised explosive force in the first 150 ms of explosive-isometric squats (33–67%; 0.001 < P < 0.017). The results suggest that explosive force production during isometric squats was associated with athletic performance. Specifically, sprint performance was most strongly related to the proportion of maximal force achieved in the initial phase of explosive-isometric squats, whilst jump height was most strongly related to absolute force in the later phase of the explosive-isometric squats.     

Relationships between functional movement screen scores,maturation and physical performance in young soccer players

The purpose of this study was to examine relationships between functional movement screen scores, maturation and physical performance in young soccer players. Thirty males (11–16 years) were assessed for maturation, functional movement screen scores and a range of physical performance tests (squat jump, reactive strength index protocol and reactive agility cut). Older players significantly outperformed younger participants in all tests (P < 0.05; effect sizes = 1.25–3.40). Deep overhead squat, in-line lunge, active straight leg raise and rotary stability test were significantly correlated to all performance tests. In-line lunge performance explained the greatest variance in reactive strength index (adjusted R² = 47%) and reactive agility cut (adjusted R² = 38%) performance, whilst maturation was the strongest predictor of squat jump performance (adjusted R² = 46%). This study demonstrated that variation of physical performance in youth soccer players could be explained by a combination of both functional movement screen scores and maturation.     

Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers

Abstract

This study investigates the changes of the connective tissue in the fingers of performance sport climbers resulting after a minimum of 15 years of climbing. Evaluation was performed by ultrasonography on the palmar side of the fingers (Dig) II–V to measure the thickness of the A2 and A4 annular pulleys, the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and profundus (FDP) tendons and the palmar plates (PP's) of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) as well as distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint in sagittal and axial direction. Totally, 31 experienced male sport climbers (mean age 37y, 30–48y grade French scale median 8b, range 7b+ to 9a+) participated in the study. The control-group consisted of 20 male non-climbers (age 37y, 30–51y). The A2 and A4 pulleys in climbers were all significantly thicker (A2 Dig III 62%, Dig IV 69%; A4 Dig III 69%, Dig IV 76%) as compared to non-climbers pulleys. All PP's of the DIP joints were also significantly thicker, particularly at Dig III and IV (76 and 67%), whereas the PP's at PIP joints were only scarce significant for three joints. Differences of the diameter of the flexor tendons were less distinct (1–21%) being significant only over the middle phalanx. High load to the fingers of rock climbers after a minimum of 15 years of climbing years induced considerable connective tissue adaptions in the fingers, most distinct at the flexor tendon pulleys and joint capsule (PP) of the DIP joints and well detectable by ultrasound.     

The effects of high resistance–few repetitions and low resistance–high repetitions resistance training on climbing performance

The aim of the study was to compare the effects of different strength training intensities on climbing performance, climbing-specific tests and a general strength test. Thirty lower grade and intermediate-level climbers participated in a 10-week training programme. The participants were randomized into three groups: high resistance–few repetitions training groups (HR-FR), low resistance–high repetitions training groups (LR-HR) and a control group (CON) which continued climbing/training as usual. Post-testing results demonstrated statistical tendencies for climbing performance improvements in the HR-FR and LR-HR (p?=?0.088–0.090, effect size?=?0.55–0.73), but no differences were observed between the groups (p?=?0.950). For the climbing-specific tests, no differences were observed between the groups (p?=?0.507–1.000), but the HR-FR and LR-HR improved their time in both Dead-hang (p?=?0.004–0.026) and Bent-arm hang (p?<?0.001–0.002). The HR-FR and LR-HR improved their 12RM strength in pull-down (p?≤?0.001), but not the CON group (p?=?0.250). No differences were observed in the CON group in any of the tests (p?=?0.190–0.596) with the exception of improvement in Bent-arm Hang (p?=?0.018). The training groups reduced their climbing sessions during the intervention compared to the CON group (p?=?0.057–0.074). In conclusion, HR-FR and LR-HR training programmes demonstrated an 11% and 12% non-significant improvement in climbing performance despite a 50% reduction in climbing sessions, but improved the results in strength and climbing-specific tests. None of the training intensities was superior compared to the others.     

The application of a multi-dimensional assessment approach to talent identification in Australian football

ABSTRACT

This study investigated whether a multi-dimensional assessment could assist with talent identification in junior Australian football (AF). Participants were recruited from an elite under 18 (U18) AF competition and classified into two groups; talent identified (State U18 Academy representatives; n = 42; 17.6 ± 0.4 y) and non-talent identified (non-State U18 Academy representatives; n = 42; 17.4 ± 0.5 y). Both groups completed a multi-dimensional assessment, which consisted of physical (standing height, dynamic vertical jump height and 20 m multistage fitness test), technical (kicking and handballing tests) and perceptual-cognitive (video decision-making task) performance outcome tests. A multivariate analysis of variance tested the main effect of status on the test criterions, whilst a receiver operating characteristic curve assessed the discrimination provided from the full assessment. The talent identified players outperformed their non-talent identified peers in each test (P < 0.05). The receiver operating characteristic curve reflected near perfect discrimination (AUC = 95.4%), correctly classifying 95% and 86% of the talent identified and non-talent identified participants, respectively. When compared to single assessment approaches, this multi-dimensional assessment reflects a more comprehensive means of talent identification in AF. This study further highlights the importance of assessing multi-dimensional performance qualities when identifying talented team sports.     

Reliability and discriminative ability of a modified Wingate rowing test in 12- to 18-year-old rowers

Abstract

We evaluated (1) the test–retest reliability of the Wingate test conducted on a rowing ergometer, and (2) the sensitivity of this test in determining the differences in performance attained by 12- to 18-year-old rowers. Altogether, 297 male rowers aged 12.0–18.9 years (mean ± s: 14.8 ± 1.7) completed a maximal 30-s test on a rowing ergometer, and 80 rowers representing all age groups were retested after 5–7 days. No change was evident in participants' performance in terms of mean power output (P = 0.726; Cohen's d = 0.04), maximal power output (P = 0.567; Cohen's d = 0.06), and minimum power output (P = 0.318; Cohen's d = 0.11) in the second test. The intra-class correlation coefficients were high (≥0.973) and coefficients of variation were low (≤7.3%). A series of analyses of variance were used to compare the performances among 12- to 18-year-old rowers, and age-related increases in performance were evident (P < 0.001; Cohen's d = 1.91–1.96). The age-related increases in performance were similar, although reduced, when the effects of body mass were partitioned out when using analysis of covariance (P < 0.001; Cohen's d = 0.82–0.85). The results suggest that: (1) the described test is reliable and can be used for maximal-intensity exercise assessment in youth rowing, and (2) it discriminates performance among 12- to-18-year-old rowers.     

Determination of the swing technique characteristics and performance outcome relationship in golf driving for low handicap female golfers

Abstract

Previous studies on the kinematics of the golf swing have mainly focused on group analysis of male golfers of a wide ability range. In the present study, we investigated gross body kinematics using a novel method of analysis for golf research for a group of low handicap female golfers to provide an understanding of their swing mechanics in relation to performance. Data were collected for the drive swings of 16 golfers using a 12-camera three-dimensional motion capture system and a stereoscopic launch monitor. Analysis of covariance identified three covariates (increased pelvis–thorax differential at the top of the backswing, increased pelvis translation during the backswing, and a decrease in absolute backswing time) as determinants of the variance in clubhead speed (adjusted r ² = 0.965, P < 0.05). A significant correlation was found between left-hand grip strength and clubhead speed (r = 0.54, P < 0.05) and between handicap and clubhead speed (r = ?0.612, P < 0.05). Flexibility measures showed some correlation with clubhead speed; both sitting flexibility tests gave positive correlations (clockwise: r = 0.522, P < 0.05; counterclockwise: r = 0.711, P < 0.01). The results suggest that there is no common driver swing technique for optimal performance in low handicap female golfers, and therefore consideration should be given to individual swing characteristics in future studies.     

The influence of tyre characteristics on measures of rolling performance during cross-country mountain biking

This investigation sets out to assess the effect of five different models of mountain bike tyre on rolling performance over hard-pack mud. Independent characteristics included total weight, volume, tread surface area and tread depth. One male cyclist performed multiple (30) trials of a deceleration field test to assess reliability. Further tests performed on a separate occasion included multiple (15) trials of the deceleration test and six fixed power output hill climb tests for each tyre. The deceleration test proved to be reliable as a means of assessing rolling performance via differences in initial and final speed (coefficient of variation (CV) = 4.52%). Overall differences between tyre performance for both deceleration test (P = 0.014) and hill climb (P = 0.032) were found, enabling significant (P < 0.0001 and P = 0.049) models to be generated, allowing tyre performance prediction based on tyre characteristics. The ideal tyre for rolling and climbing performance on hard-pack surfaces would be to decrease tyre weight by way of reductions in tread surface area and tread depth while keeping volume high.     

Two tests of approach-iron golf skill and their ability to predict tournament performance

Abstract

The aim of this study was to investigate the convergent and predictive validity of two skill tests that examine the ability of golfers to hit accurate approach-iron shots. Twenty-four high-level golfers (handicap = 2.6 ± 1.7) performed the Nine-Ball Skills Test (assesses the ability to shape/control ball trajectory with high accuracy) and the Approach-Iron Skill Test (assesses the ability to hit straight shots from varying distances with high accuracy). Participants then completed at least eight rounds of tournament golf over the following 90 days and reported an indicator of approach-iron accuracy (per cent error index). A moderate correlation (r = 0.50, P < 0.05) was noted between scores for both tests. Generalised estimating equations, using two covariates (lie of the ball and distance to hole), were used to determine model fit and the amount of variance explained for tournament per cent error index. Results showed that the Approach-Iron Skill Test was the slightly stronger predictor of on-course per cent error index. With both test scores considered together, a minimal amount of additional variance was explained. These findings suggest that either of the tests used individually or combined may be used to predict tournament approach iron performance in high-level golfers.