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1.
Simon Fryer Lee Stoner Carl Scarrott Adam Lucero Trevor Witter Richard Love 《Journal of sports sciences》2015,33(5):518-526
Currently, the physiological mechanisms that allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of 2 forearm flexor muscles in 3 ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate, and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (P < 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (P < 0.05) more (32, 34.3, and 42.8 vs. 63% O2, respectively), and at a greater rate (0.32, 0.27, and 0.34 vs. 0.77 O2%·s?1, respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (P < 0.05) more and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s?1, respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ? blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers; therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance. 相似文献
2.
Jiří Baláš David Giles Jan Kodejška Michaela Panáčková Simon Fryer 《European Journal of Sport Science》2016,16(7):764-772
This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and near-infrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P?.05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P?.05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P?.05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers. 相似文献
3.
Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
MacLeod D Sutherland DL Buntin L Whitaker A Aitchison T Watt I Bradley J Grant S 《Journal of sports sciences》2007,25(12):1433-1443
The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force-time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N x s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N x s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N x s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N x s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force-time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023--40% test timepoint, P = 0.014--60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force-time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance. 相似文献
4.
Physiological or performance tests are routinely utilised to assess athletes’ recovery. At present, the ideal tool to assess recovery remains unknown. Therefore, the aim of this systematic review was to examine the change in creatine kinase (CK) and neuromuscular function as measured via a countermovement jump (CMJ) following a match in the contact codes of football. A comprehensive search of databases was undertaken with RevMan (V 5.3) used for statistical analysis. Our results demonstrated that CK pre- versus post-match (standardised mean difference (SMD)?=?0.90, 95% CI?=?0.50 to 1.31, p?.0001), CK pre- versus 24?h post-match (SMD?=?1.50, 95% CI?=?1.12 to 1.88, p?.00001), and CK pre- versus 48?h post-match all increased significantly (SMD?=?0.90, 95% CI?=?0.50 to 1.31, p?.0001), while CMJ peak power (PP) pre- versus post-match (SMD?=??0.59, 95% CI?=??1.12 to ?0.06, p?=?.03), and pre- versus 24?h post-match (SMD?=??0.80, 95% CI?=??1.31 to ?0.28, p?=?.002) decreased significantly. There was a significant relationship between the change in CK and the change in CMJ PP from immediately pre to immediately post (r?=??0.924, p?=?.025), and between CMJ immediately following a match and 24?h CK change (r?=??0.983, p?=?.017). In conclusion, CK levels increase and performance in the CMJ decreases following a match of a contact code of football. The identification of this relationship may allow coaching staff to implement a standalone measure of recovery. 相似文献
5.
Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance
D. Macleod D. L. Sutherland L. Buntin A. Whitaker T. Aitchison I. Watt 《Journal of sports sciences》2013,31(12):1433-1443
Abstract The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force – time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N · s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N · s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N · s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N · s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force – time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023 – 40% test timepoint, P = 0.014 – 60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force – time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance. 相似文献
6.
《European Journal of Sport Science》2013,13(8):696-702
AbstractThis study investigates the changes of the connective tissue in the fingers of performance sport climbers resulting after a minimum of 15 years of climbing. Evaluation was performed by ultrasonography on the palmar side of the fingers (Dig) II–V to measure the thickness of the A2 and A4 annular pulleys, the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and profundus (FDP) tendons and the palmar plates (PP's) of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) as well as distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint in sagittal and axial direction. Totally, 31 experienced male sport climbers (mean age 37y, 30–48y grade French scale median 8b, range 7b+ to 9a+) participated in the study. The control-group consisted of 20 male non-climbers (age 37y, 30–51y). The A2 and A4 pulleys in climbers were all significantly thicker (A2 Dig III 62%, Dig IV 69%; A4 Dig III 69%, Dig IV 76%) as compared to non-climbers pulleys. All PP's of the DIP joints were also significantly thicker, particularly at Dig III and IV (76 and 67%), whereas the PP's at PIP joints were only scarce significant for three joints. Differences of the diameter of the flexor tendons were less distinct (1–21%) being significant only over the middle phalanx. High load to the fingers of rock climbers after a minimum of 15 years of climbing years induced considerable connective tissue adaptions in the fingers, most distinct at the flexor tendon pulleys and joint capsule (PP) of the DIP joints and well detectable by ultrasound. 相似文献
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E. L. J. Eyre V. M. Cox S. L. Birch M. J. Duncan 《European Journal of Sport Science》2016,16(3):381-390
Integrating physical activity (PA) within a school curriculum is a promising approach for increasing PA in children. To date, no research has examined its effectiveness in increasing the low levels of PA witnessed in deprived South Asian (SA) children. The study aims to ascertain whether an integrated school-based curriculum and pedometer intervention could increase PA in children from deprived SA backgrounds. Following ethical approval and informed consent, 134 deprived SA children (63 boys, 71 girls, control (n?=?40, mean age?=?11.12 years, SD?=?0.32 years) and intervention (n?=?94, mean age?=?9.48 years, SD?=?0.62 years)) from a primary school in England, UK, completed a 6-week integrated PA intervention based on virtually walking from their school (middle of the country) to the coast and back (March–July 2013). Habitual PA was determined at baseline and post 6 weeks intervention for both groups, and determined weekly during the intervention in the experimental group. The results indicated that average daily steps were significantly higher at post 6 weeks compared to baseline for the intervention group (intervention mean change?=?8694 steps/day, SD?=?7428 steps/day vs. control mean change?=??1121 steps/day, SD?=?5592 steps/day, 95% CI of difference, 6726–7428 steps/day, P?=?.001, d?=?1.76). In addition, significant decreases in BF% and waist circumference were observed in the intervention group post 6 weeks (mean change for BF%?=??4.5%, mean change for WC?=??1.7?cm, P?=?.001). School-based integrated curriculum and pedometer interventions provide a feasible and effective mechanism for increasing habitual PA in primary school children from deprived SA backgrounds. 相似文献
10.
《European Journal of Sport Science》2013,13(8):773-783
AbstractPurpose: To investigate if combined strength and aerobic training can enhance aerobic capacity in the elderly to a similar extent as aerobic training alone when training duration is matched. Methods: Elderly men and women (age 63.2?±?4.7) were randomized into two intervention groups: an aerobic group (AG, n?=?17) and a combined group (CG, n?=?16). Subjects trained 40?minutes three times a week for 12 weeks. Both groups trained 20 minutes at 65% of heart rate reserve on ergometer cycles followed by another 20 minutes on the ergometer cycles for AG and 20-minute strength training for the lower body for CG. The primary outcome was VO2max. Secondary outcomes were maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) in isometric knee extension, 1 repetition maximum in three leg exercises, body fat, waist-to-hip ratio, blood pressure and score on the Health Survey Short Form 36 (SF-36). Results: Both groups improved VO2max (p?<?.01) and MVC (p?<?.001). VO2max increased 17% confidence interval (CI) [7.4–26] in CG and 26% CI [14.1–38.2] in AG, with no significant difference between groups. MVC increased 22% CI [16.3–27.7] in CG and 9% CI [4.6–13.5] in AG with CG improving MVC more than AG (p?<?.01). CG's score on the general health dimension on the SF-36 health survey improved more than AG's score. Conclusion: Elderly can substitute a part of their aerobic training with strength training and still improve VO2max to a clinically significant degree when strength training is performed with large muscle groups subsequently to the aerobic training. Combined training additionally improves strength and self-assessed general health more than aerobic training alone. 相似文献
11.
《European Journal of Sport Science》2013,13(1):13-20
Abstract Rock climbing is a popular adventure sport with an increasing research base. Early studies in the field did not make comparisons of ascents using different styles of climbing. More recently, differences in the physiological responses for an on-sight lead climb and subsequent lead climb have been reported. The purpose of the present study was to examine the effect of style of climb (lead climb or top rope climb) on the physiological and psychological responses to rock climbing. Nine intermediate climbers volunteered for, and completed, two randomly assigned climbing trials and a maximum oxygen uptake (VO2max) test on a separate occasion. The climbers ascended the same 6a (sport grade) climb for both trials. Before climbing, heart rate, perception of anxiety (Revised Competitive State Anxiety Inventory-2), and blood lactate concentration were measured. Climb time, heart rate, VO2, lactate concentrations, and task load (National Aeronautics and Space Administration Task Load Index) in response to each trial were also recorded. Results indicated significant differences (P<0.05) between the trials for climb time, blood lactate concentration immediately after and 15 min after climbing, and heart rate 1 min after climbing. During lead and top rope climbing, mean VO2 and represented 44% and 42% of treadmill VO2max and mean heart rate represented 81% and 77% of maximum heart rate, respectively. There were no significant differences in feelings of anxiety before either climb, although climbers reported the lead climb to be physically and mentally more demanding, requiring more effort and resulting in greater frustration (P<0.05) than the top rope climb. Our results indicate that the physiological and psychological responses of intermediate climbers are different for a lead climb and top rope climb. 相似文献
12.
Eloisa Limonta Emiliano Cè Massimiliano Gobbo Arsenio Veicsteinas Claudio Orizio 《Journal of sports sciences》2016,34(2):133-142
The aim of the study was to evaluate, by an electromyographic (EMG) and mechanomyographic (MMG) combined approach, whether years of specific climbing activity induced neuromuscular changes towards performances related to a functional prevalence of fast resistant or fast fatigable motor units. For this purpose, after the maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) assessment, 11 elite climbers and 10 controls performed an exhaustive handgrip isometric effort at 80% MVC. Force, EMG and MMG signals were recorded from the finger flexor muscles during contraction. Time and frequency domain analysis of EMG and MMG signals was performed. In climbers: (i) MVC was higher (762 ± 34 vs 512 ± 57 N; effect size: 1.64; confidence interval: 0.65–2.63; P < 0.05); (ii) endurance time at 80% MVC was 43% longer (34.2 ± 3.7 vs 22.3 ± 1.5 s; effect size: 1.21; confidence interval: 0.28–2.14; P < 0.05); (iii) force accuracy and stability were greater during contraction (P < 0.05); (iv) EMG and MMG parameters were higher throughout the entire isometric effort (P < 0.05). Collectively, force, EMG and MMG combined analysis revealed that several years of specific climbing activity addressed the motor control system to adopt muscle activation strategies based on the functional prevalence of fast resistant motor units. 相似文献
13.
Nessan Costello Kevin Deighton Joshua Dyson Jim Mckenna Ben Jones 《European Journal of Sport Science》2017,17(8):1044-1055
To ensure that elite adolescent athletes meet their unique training, growth and maturation demands, it is imperative to have access to valid measures of energy intake. Contemporary methods demand close attention-to-detail, meaning that athletes often do not fully adhere to real-time protocols. This study represents the first investigation of a real-time dietary assessment designed using a comprehensive behaviour change framework (COM-B). In a crossover design, 12 elite adolescent male rugby players recorded their energy intake via an estimated food diary (est-FD) and photography-based mobile assessment (‘Snap-n-Send’), combined with a 24-h dietary recall interview. Two 4-day assessment periods were divided into three separate recording environments: 96?h free-living and researcher-observed; 72?h free-living and 10?h researcher-observed. Assessment periods were one month apart. All foods and beverages were provided and weighed by the research team to quantify actual intakes. ‘Snap-n-Send’ reported a small mean bias for under-reporting across 96?h (?0.75?MJ?day?1; 95% confidence interval [CI] for bias?=??5.7% to ?2.2%, p?<?.001), 72?h (?0.76?MJ?day?1; 95% CI for bias?=??5.6% to ?2.1%, p?=?.004) and 10?h (?0.72?MJ?day?1; 95% CI for bias?=??8.1% to ?0.1%; p?=?.067) environments. The est-FD reported a moderate mean bias for under-reporting across 96?h (?2.89?MJ?day?1; 95% CI for bias?=??17.9% to ?10.2%; p?<?.001), 72?h (?2.88?MJ?day?1; 95% CI for bias?=??17.9% to ?10.1%; p?<?.001) and 10?h (?2.52?MJ?day?1;?26.1% to ?5.3%; p?=?.023) environments. Results evidence the ability of ‘Snap-n-Send’ to accurately assess the diet of elite adolescent athletes, signalling the exciting promise of this comprehensive and theoretical behavioural approach within valid dietary assessment. 相似文献
14.
Abstract The aim of this study was to characterize forearm muscle fatigue identified by the decrease in electromyogram median frequency and/or fingertip force during intermittent exercise. Nine elite climbers (international competitive level, USA 5.14a on sight) and ten non-climbers were instructed to maintain a fingertip force of 80% of their maximal voluntary contraction force on a dynamometer mimicking a rock climbing grip during a 5 s effort/5 s rest cycle for 36 repetitions (i.e. 6 min of exercise). Elite climbers lasted twice as long as non-climbers (climbers: 3 min; non-climbers: 1 min 30 s) before the force could no longer be maintained (i.e. the failure point). After this moment, fingertip force decreased and stabilized until the end of the exercise around 50% maximum voluntary contraction force in non-climbers and 63% in elite climbers. Electromyogram median frequency showed a greater decrease in non-climbers than in elite climbers before the failure point. No change in median frequency was observed after the failure point in elite climbers or in non-climbers. These results confirm that elite climbers are better adapted than non-climbers for performing the intermittent fingertip effort before the failure point. After this point, the better fingertip force of elite climbers suggests different forearm muscle properties, while the electromyography results do not provide any indication about the fatigue process. 相似文献
15.
The aim of this study was to characterize forearm muscle fatigue identified by the decrease in electromyogram median frequency and/or fingertip force during intermittent exercise. Nine elite climbers (international competitive level, USA 5.14a on sight) and ten non-climbers were instructed to maintain a fingertip force of 80% of their maximal voluntary contraction force on a dynamometer mimicking a rock climbing grip during a 5 s effort/5 s rest cycle for 36 repetitions (i.e. 6 min of exercise). Elite climbers lasted twice as long as non-climbers (climbers: 3 min; non-climbers: 1 min 30 s) before the force could no longer be maintained (i.e. the failure point). After this moment, fingertip force decreased and stabilized until the end of the exercise around 50% maximum voluntary contraction force in non-climbers and 63% in elite climbers. Electromyogram median frequency showed a greater decrease in non-climbers than in elite climbers before the failure point. No change in median frequency was observed after the failure point in elite climbers or in non-climbers. These results confirm that elite climbers are better adapted than non-climbers for performing the intermittent fingertip effort before the failure point. After this point, the better fingertip force of elite climbers suggests different forearm muscle properties, while the electromyography results do not provide any indication about the fatigue process. 相似文献
16.
Pedro L. Valenzuela Zigor Montalvo G. Sánchez-Martínez Elaia Torrontegi J. De La Calle-Herrero R. Domínguez-castells 《European Journal of Sport Science》2018,18(5):677-684
This study aimed to determine which contractile properties measured by tensiomyography (TMG) could better differentiate athletes with high- and low-power values, as well as to analyse the relationship between contractile properties and power production capacity. The contractile properties of the vastus medialis (VM), rectus femoris (RF) and vastus lateralis (VL) of an Olympic women’s Rugby Sevens team (n?=?14) were analysed before a Wingate test in which their peak power output (PPO) was determined. Athletes were then divided into a high-power (HP) and a low-power (LP) group. HP presented an almost certainly higher PPO (9.8?±?0.3 vs. 8.9?±?0.4 W kg?1, ES?=?3.00) than LP, as well as a very likely lower radial displacement (3.39?±?1.16 vs. 5.65?±?1.50?mm, ES?=?1.68) and velocity of deformation (0.08?±?0.02 vs. 0.13?±?0.03 mm ms?1, ES?=?1.87) of the VL. A likely lower time of delay was observed in HP for all analysed muscles (ES?>?0.60). PPO was very largely related to the radial displacement (r?=??0.75, 90% CI?=??0.90 to ?0.44) and velocity of deformation (r?=??0.70, 90% CI?=??0.87 to ?0.34) of the VL. A large correlation was found between PPO and the time of delay of the VL (r?=??0.61, 90% CI?=??0.84 to ?0.22). No correlations were found for the contractile properties of RF or VM. These results highlight the importance of VL contractile properties (but not so much those of RF and VM) for maximal power production and suggest TMG as a practical technique for its evaluation. 相似文献
17.
The aim of the study was to compare the effects of different strength training intensities on climbing performance, climbing-specific tests and a general strength test. Thirty lower grade and intermediate-level climbers participated in a 10-week training programme. The participants were randomized into three groups: high resistance–few repetitions training groups (HR-FR), low resistance–high repetitions training groups (LR-HR) and a control group (CON) which continued climbing/training as usual. Post-testing results demonstrated statistical tendencies for climbing performance improvements in the HR-FR and LR-HR (p?=?0.088–0.090, effect size?=?0.55–0.73), but no differences were observed between the groups (p?=?0.950). For the climbing-specific tests, no differences were observed between the groups (p?=?0.507–1.000), but the HR-FR and LR-HR improved their time in both Dead-hang (p?=?0.004–0.026) and Bent-arm hang (p?<?0.001–0.002). The HR-FR and LR-HR improved their 12RM strength in pull-down (p?≤?0.001), but not the CON group (p?=?0.250). No differences were observed in the CON group in any of the tests (p?=?0.190–0.596) with the exception of improvement in Bent-arm Hang (p?=?0.018). The training groups reduced their climbing sessions during the intervention compared to the CON group (p?=?0.057–0.074). In conclusion, HR-FR and LR-HR training programmes demonstrated an 11% and 12% non-significant improvement in climbing performance despite a 50% reduction in climbing sessions, but improved the results in strength and climbing-specific tests. None of the training intensities was superior compared to the others. 相似文献
18.
Vincent Gouttebarge Gino Kerkhoffs Mike Lambert 《European Journal of Sport Science》2016,16(5):595-602
The primary aim of this study was to determine the prevalence of symptoms of common mental disorders (CMD) (distress, anxiety/depression, sleeping disturbance, adverse nutrition behaviour, adverse alcohol behaviour and smoking) among retired professional Rugby Union players. The secondary aim was to explore the associations between stressors (life events, Rugby Union career dissatisfaction) and the health conditions under study. Therefore, cross-sectional analyses were conducted on baseline questionnaires from an ongoing prospective cohort study of retired professional Rugby Union players. An electronic questionnaire was established using validated questionnaires to assess symptoms of CMD and stressors. The electronic questionnaire was subsequently distributed to retired players by the national Rugby Union players’ associations in France, Ireland and South Africa. Among 295 retired professional Rugby Union players (mean age of 38 years), prevalence rates were 25% for distress, 28% for anxiety/depression, 29% for sleeping disturbance, 62% for adverse nutrition behaviour, 15% for smoking and 24% for adverse alcohol behaviour. A higher number of life events were associated with distress (OR?=?1.2; 95% CI 1.1–1.4), anxiety/depression (OR?=?1.6; 95% CI 1.2–2.1), sleeping disturbance (OR?=?1.6; 95% CI 1.2–2.1) and adverse nutrition behaviour (OR?=?1.8; 95% CI 1.3–2.5). A higher level of dissatisfaction of the player's Rugby Union career was associated with distress (OR?=?0.9; 95% CI 0.8–1.0), sleeping disturbance (OR?=?0.9; 95% CI 0.9–1.0), smoking (OR?=?0.9; 95% CI 0.9–1.0) and adverse nutrition behaviour (OR?=?0.9; 95% CI 0.8–0.9). In conclusion, our study suggests that prevalence of symptoms of CMD is high among retired professional Rugby Union players, being associated with both a higher number of life events and a higher level of Rugby Union career dissatisfaction. 相似文献
19.
Different ambient temperatures are known to affect muscular performance based on the type of contraction. The effect of cold (10°C) and thermoneutral (TN) (24°C) ambient temperatures on finger flexor performance was examined in 12 rock climbers. After 30?min of seated rest in the designated temperature condition, participants completed maximal voluntary contractions (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger flexor assessment device equipped with a crimp grip hold. Participants then completed an intermittent fatiguing task until failure. The fatiguing task consisted of 10-s contractions at 40% MVC followed by a 3-s of rest. MVC recovery was assessed immediately, 5, 10, and 15?min post-task failure. Estimated muscle temperature and subjective thermal ratings were significantly lower throughout testing in the cold condition (P?<?.001). Finger flexor MVC strength was similar between conditions at baseline and throughout recovery. Time to task failure was significantly longer (364?±?135 vs. 251?±?97 s, P?=?.003) and force time integral was greater (53,715?±?19,988 vs. 40,243?±?15,360?Ns, P?=?.001) during the cold condition. No significant differences were found between conditions for force variability or electromyography (EMG) at the start and end of the fatiguing task. However, the rate of increase in EMG for the TN condition was significantly faster (P?=?.03). These results suggest important implications for researchers when examining climbing performance, especially in outdoor settings where temperatures may vary from day to day. Inconsistencies in testing temperatures might significantly affect muscular endurance. 相似文献
20.
Barthelemy Delecroix Alan McCall Brian Dawson Serge Berthoin 《European Journal of Sport Science》2018,18(9):1280-1287
Purpose: The aim of this study was to analyse the relationship between absolute and acute:chronic workload ratios and non-contact injury incidence in professional football players and to assess their predictive ability. Methods: Elite football players (n?=?130) from five teams competing in European domestic and confederation level competitions were followed during one full competitive season. Non-contact injuries were recorded and using session rate of perceived exertion (s-RPE) internal absolute workload and acute:chronic (A:C) workload ratios (4-weeks, 3-weeks, 2-weeks and week-to-week) were calculated using a rolling days method. Results: The relative risk (RR) of non-contact injury was increased (RR?=?1.59, CI95%: 1.18–2.15) when a cumulative 4-week absolute workload was greater than 10629 arbitrary units (AU) in comparison with a workload between 3745 and 10628?AU. When the 3-week absolute workload was more than 8319?AU versus between 2822 and 8318?AU injury risk was also increased (RR=?1.46, CI95% 1.08–1.98). Injury incidence was higher when the 4-week A:C ratio was <0.85 versus >0.85 (RR?=?1.31, CI95%: 1.02–1.70) and with a 3-week A:C ratio >1.30 versus <1.30 (RR?=?1.37, CI95%: 1.05–1.77). Importantly, none of the A:C workload combinations showed high sensitivity or specificity. Conclusions: In elite European footballers, using internal workload (sRPE) revealed that cumulative workloads over 3 and 4 weeks were associated with injury incidence. Additionally, A:C workloads, using combinations of 2, 3 and 4 weeks as the C workloads were also associated with increased injury risk. No A:C workload combination was appropriate to predict injury. 相似文献