Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing

The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique.     

List of reviewers

Acknowledgement

List of reviewers     

Validity of the VmaxST portable metabolic measurement system

The aim of this study was to assess and compare the validity of the portable VmaxST telemetry metabolic measurement device with that of a standard measurement system (Vmax29). Thirty asymptomatic, moderately active males provided written, informed consent and completed two maximal graded treadmill exercise tests (Bruce) using the VmaxST and the Vmax29 metabolic measurement systems. Tests were performed in random order on separate days to obtain peak values for time to exhaustion, heart rate, systolic and diastolic blood pressure, oxygen consumption (VO2), carbon dioxide production (VCO2), ventilation (VE), and respiratory exchange ratio (RER). Multivariate analysis of variance revealed no significant main effect (P = 0.88) between the two systems across any variable, suggesting similar measurement capabilities between the two systems. Linear regression analyses revealed moderate to high coefficients of determination for VO2 (r2 = 0.99), VCO2 (r2 = 0.99), VE r2 = 0.99), and RER (r2 = 0.89). Furthermore, Bland-Altman analyses demonstrated that the VmaxST yielded similar values to the Vmax29, suggesting good agreement between the two systems. Agreement was confirmed when the differences between the methods resulted in a small range as identified by the 95% limits of agreement. Findings from the current study confirm that the VmaxST is a valid device for measuring metabolic and physiological variables during exercise within a controlled laboratory setting.     

Immunocytochemical localization of carbonic anhydrase in the pseudobranch tissue of the rainbow trout Oncorhynchus mykiss简

Pseudobranch function has long interested scientists, but its role has yet to be elucidated. Several studies have suggested that pseudobranchs serve respiratory, osmoregulatory, and sensory functions. This work investigated the immunolocalization of pseudobranch carbonic anhydrase (CA) in the teleost fish species rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) to clarify its physiological function. CA was purified from rainbow trout gills O. mykiss and specific antibodies were raised. Immunoblotting between tissue homogenates of pseudobranch and gill CA antibodies showed specific immunostaining with only one band corresponding to CA in the pseudobranch homogenate. Results of immunohistochemical technique revealed that CA was distributed within pseudobranch cells and more precisely in the apical parts (anti-vascular) of cells. The basal (vascular) parts of cells, tubular system, blood capillaries, and pillar cells were not immunostained. Immunocytochemistry confirmed these results and showed that some CA enzyme was cytoplasmic and the remainder was linked to membranous structures. The results also showed that the lacunar tissue layers did not display immunoperoxidase activity. Our results indicated that pseudobranch CA may have a function related to the extracellular medium wherein CA intervenes with the mechanism of stimulation of afferent nerve fibers.     

Continuous frequency and phase spectrograms： a study of their 2D and 3D capabilities and application to musical signal analysis

A new lighting and enlargement on phase spectrogram （PS） and frequency spectrogram （FS） is presented in this paper. These representations result from the coupling of power spectrogram and short time Fourier transform （STFT）. The main contribution is the construction of the 3D phase spectrogram （3DPS） and the 3D frequency spectrogram （3DFS）. These new tools allow such specific test signals as small slope linear chirp, phase jump case of musical signal analysis is reported. The main objective is to and small frequency jump to be analyzed. An application detect small frequency and phase variations in order to characterize each type of sound attack without losing the amplitude information given by power spectrogram     

Transfer of Learning as a Specific Case of Transition between Learning Contexts in a French Work-Integrated Learning Programme

The aim of this article is to discuss transfer of learning in a tertiary technical course in the French educational context. The focus is on a pedagogical sequence (i.e. a complex problem-solving activity) requiring different types of knowledge that students are expected to have learnt previously in the different parts of their training course (both at university and in the workplace). The theoretical approach considers transfer of learning as a complex transition, including not only cognitive but also social and identity changes. This type of transition can be more or less difficult according to the types of knowledge and the pedagogical organisation of the training course, including more or less connective activities between its different components. We recorded two groups of students during the pedagogical sequence and analysed their collective activity during the problem solving. Our findings show that students can easily transfer concrete knowledge from the workplace whereas they have great difficulty in using theoretical concepts and methods coming from the academic teachings at the university. We propose an interpretation of the students?? difficulties by analysing the characteristics of these different social learning contexts. We also discuss the way in which such types of connective activities can be designed and managed by teachers to improve their efficiency.     

Effects of targeted interventions and of specific instructional time on reading ability in French children in grade 1

European Journal of Psychology of Education - The aim is to examine the impact of interventions on fluency and reading comprehension and how the effects of these interventions depend on the time...     

Haemodynamic changes after prolonged water immersion

Abstract

Thermoneutral water immersion increases cardiac preload and changes the neuroendocrine settings of blood volume regulation. The resulting marked diuresis may lead to significant haemodynamic changes after the end of a prolonged water immersion. Ten volunteers underwent 6 h of complete thermoneutral water immersion. Changes in cardiovascular status were assessed 1 h and 16 h after water immersion. Haemodynamic changes were assessed by Doppler echocardiography. Arterial wall distensibility was estimated by pulse wave velocity analysis. One hour after water immersion, mean weight loss was 1.78 kg and urine volume amounted to 1.5 litres. Echocardiographic measurements evidenced a significant decrease in dimensions of the left cardiac chambers and inferior vena cava. The decreased cardiac preload was paralleled by a lower stroke volume and cardiac output. A peripheral vasoconstriction associated with a relative decrease in the lower limb blood flow was evidenced by an increase in carotid-pedal pulse wave velocity and by a decrease in ankle brachial index. Sixteen hours after water immersion, cardiac preload and cardiac output remained below baseline values and peripheral vascular tone was still higher than at baseline. Marked haemodynamic changes had not returned to baseline 16 h after water immersion. There is a need to design fluid-replacement protocols to improve this recovery.