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91.
Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing 总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0
Draper N Dickson T Blackwell G Fryer S Priestley S Winter D Ellis G 《Journal of sports sciences》2011,29(8):851-858
Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a "best ascent", rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6?±?3.4 and 22.0?±?3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability. 相似文献
92.
Irwin C Desbrow B Ellis A O'Keeffe B Grant G Leveritt M 《Journal of sports sciences》2011,29(5):509-515
In this study, we investigated the impact of a controlled 4-day caffeine withdrawal period on the effect of an acute caffeine dose on endurance exercise performance. Twelve well-trained and familiarized male cyclists, who were caffeine consumers (from coffee and a range of other sources), were recruited for the study. A double-blind placebo-controlled cross-over design was employed, involving four experimental trials. Participants abstained from dietary caffeine sources for 4 days before the trials and ingested capsules (one in the morning and one in the afternoon) containing either placebo or caffeine (1.5 mg · kg(-1) body weight · day(-1)). On day 5, capsules containing placebo or caffeine (3 mg · kg(-1) body weight) were ingested 90 min before completing a time trial, equivalent to one hour of cycling at 75% peak sustainable power output. Hence the study was designed to incorporate placebo-placebo, placebo-caffeine, caffeine-placebo, and caffeine-caffeine conditions. Performance time was significantly improved after acute caffeine ingestion by 1:49 ± 1:41 min (3.0%, P = 0.021) following a withdrawal period (placebo-placebo vs. placebo-caffeine), and by 2:07 ± 1:28 min (3.6%, P = 0.002) following the non-withdrawal period (caffeine-placebo vs. caffeine-caffeine). No significant difference was detected between the two acute caffeine trials (placebo-caffeine vs. caffeine-caffeine). Average heart rate throughout exercise was significantly higher following acute caffeine administration compared with placebo. No differences were observed in ratings of perceived exertion between trials. A 3 mg · kg(-1) dose of caffeine significantly improves exercise performance irrespective of whether a 4-day withdrawal period is imposed on habitual caffeine users. 相似文献
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Sidney A. Ellis 《Academic Questions》1995,8(4):10-11
Letters
Professor Ellis responds 相似文献97.
In an earlier paper (Miles and Wheeler 1975) it was reported that dyslexic subjects, aged over 13, were less able than suitably
matched non-dyslexic subjects to respond correctly to arrays of tachistoscopically presented digits. A further experiment
is now reported involving a younger age-group: 15 dyslexic subjects, average age twelve and one-half, were matched for spelling
age with 15 non-dyslexic subjects, average age eight and one-half; and since the dyslexic subjects were appreciably less successful
it is argued that “maturational lag” does not, on its own, fully account for the difference in performance between the two
groups. A similar procedure was repeated with 41 dyslexic and 41 non-dyslexic subjects, all aged between 10.4 and 14.4, both
with and without the introduction of a visual masking stimulus immediately after the test stimulus. Twenty undergraduate “fast-readers,”
20 undergraduate “slow-readers,” and four undergraduate dyslexic subjects were also compared both on their responses to tachistoscopically
presented digits and on their performance in a visual search task. The results, taken in conjunction, suggest that dyslexia
can be regarded as some kind of limitation in the ability to process information, perhaps affecting in particular the “visual
code store” postulated by Posner et al. (1969).
This paper was prepared for deliveryin absentia at the 27th Annual Conference of The Orton Society, in New York City, November 1976. 相似文献
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ABSTRACTHuman resource development professionals in Higher Education are continually striving to develop efficient interventions to increase the capabilities of their leaders. As a result of evaluating feedback from an action learning (AL) programme designed and delivered in North West Higher Education Institutions in the UK for women in senior academic and professional service roles, we are able to share how AL can be utilised to transcend and supplement traditional leadership training. The article discusses the approach taken to support participants to develop vital leadership behaviours through the acquisition of critical questioning and reflective habits whilst developing strong supportive cross-institutional relationships with other higher education leaders. 相似文献
100.
John M. Ellis 《Academic Questions》1995,8(4):68-69
Editor's Note: On 20 July 1995 the Board of Regents of the University of California voted to end the use of race, gender, and ethnicity
in student admissions and in faculty and staff hiring. Before the vote, thirty-one “elected and other public figures” were
scheduled to address the Regents briefly on the subject of affirmation action. Governor Pete Wilson (ex officio president of the Board) was allocated several of the thirty-one slots. Among those he invited to speak was NAS member John
M. Ellis. We present Professor Ellis’s remarks below. 相似文献