Revival of traditional European dyeing techniques yellow and red colorants

Based on both a historic and documentary and a physicochemical approach, the study is attempting to codify well-adapted antique, medieval and traditional textile dyeing recipes; to reconstruct them through a detailed sequence of simple and reproducible operations; and to optimize the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction of the colouring principles, as well as mordanting and dyeing; the latter being evaluated through standard light and wash fastness assessments, and on the basis of systematically obtained colorimetric data. As colouring agents are considered saffron, turmeric, weld, Persian berries, henna, safflower, dyer's bugloss, madder, scale insects, sappan and Brazil wood. A variety of mordants, namely FeCl₃, SnCl₂, K₂Cr₂O₇, ZnCl₂, CuSO₄, and KAl(SO₄)₂·12H₂O, is anticipated to meet both early and rather recent options, while being easily available. Based on a large collection of ancient proposals and optimized by means of methodical assessments, the standardized dyeing processes proposed are simple, reproducible, and perfectly reliable for use in the preservation of the relevant tangible heritage, and the revival of traditional arts and crafts; and are consequently beneficial to artistic weavers, as well as conservators and restorers of textile products.