质孙服考略

质孙服是元代达官贵人地位和身份的象征，皇帝所赐质孙服，多以显示对臣僚的宠爱，受赐者往往以此为荣。按照参加质孙宴的人的地位不同，质孙服的结构可分为两类：一类是帝王、大臣、贵族等上层社会的人士所穿的没有“细摺”的腰线袍以及直身放摆结构的直身袍；另一类是在质孙宴上服务于这些上层人物的乐工、卫士等所穿的辫线袍。

A Study on the Zhisun - A Kind of Mongolian Grande Toilette of the Yuan Dynasty

The Zhisun, or jisun in Mongolian, was the most luxuriant and magnificent grande toilette worn at royal court ceremonies called Zhisun Banquet in the Yuan Dynasty. It stood for the high social status for Mongolian high officials and nobilities to dress zhisun and present at the court ceremonies. The Emperor of the Yuan usually granted zhisun to his subject officials and nobilities to express his favor and praise to them, meanwhile, grantees felt great honor for being granted. Based on an examination of historical literatures, the present paper studies the history, structure and classification of this kind of grande toilette and comes to the conclusion that there were two kind of zhisun, one was the formal dress for Emperors and his subject officials and nobilities and the other servant to the zhisun banquets.